‘Sunday lunch we’d eat a beast heart’: Ripon chef serves up his childhood soul with creative flair

Tartine Lounge, on Ripon’s Westgate, originally made culinary waves as Vanora’s Bakery by supplying the best sourdough to reputed venues like Grantley Hall.

When Vanora took a step back from the bakery, it adapted and became a ‘secret’ 14-seater restaurant at the back of the venue.

Serving a mixture of hearty French ‘bouchon’ and British classics, humble ingredients are given equal affection, providing the overall experience with undeniable class and authenticity.

Mr Pearson said: “Cheffing chose me.

“I was always creative.

“I think creativity is born out of hardship, as we were extremely poor.

“Coming from a house of six lads, and just a father, in those days it wasn’t something you did.

“My father was too proud to use a foodbank.

“He would’ve chopped his arm off first.

“We didn’t have the money for crisps or yoghurts, dad would call them fancies.

“For Sunday lunch we’d eat a beast heart.

“I thought I was deprived in those days.

“He wasn’t the best cook, but he did the best he could.

“We ate very poor food, I was embarrassed about it.

“When you don’t have money, you just crack on and do it yourself.

“My menu was born out of childhood.

“So it’s emotional when people like it.

Mr Pearson recalled a food tour in Berlin where he ate sauerkraut, sausages, and potatoes with a pint of beer, the kind of hearty food that still inspires him.

He also mentioned the highly influential English chef, Fergus Henderson OBE - whose nose to tail style cooking philosophy also famously inspired food hero, autho and documentarian, Anthony Bourdain.

Mr Pearson said: “Everything is from scratch. Real honest food.

“The art of the craft, however humble the ingredients.

“Only allowing this creativity to come out years later, now feeds my habit.

“I buy rabbits from France because I can’t get hold of them.

“I confit them in goose fat, and it’s now my most popular dish.

Vanora’s influence remains vital as she taught Mr Peason the precise alchemy of baking.

Mr Pearson said: “It gave me a good foundation.

“Bread can be the main attraction.

“But baking didn’t feed my creative side.

“We thought a bar would compliment it because we couldn’t keep having our secret restaurant behind the bakery.

“It’s a lively little bar.

“We have New England IPA’s and free pizzas occasionally.

“I speak to customers and we play around.

The lounge’s intimate ambience builds on simplicity without compromising on bold flavours that impress, and it introduces unconventional cooking styles.

Mr Pearson said:“Feeding people is really personal to me.

“A lot of that style mimics what I had as a kid.

“We keep the menu changing with traditional elements.

“Dad lived out of the garden and off the land.

“It wasn’t cool to eat like that then.

“When you’re deprived you get a wider range of tastes.

“People are far more open than you think.

The casual neighbourhood-style hidden gem even attracted global megastar Tom Hardy and family.

Mr Pearson said: “Marco Pierre-White famously said it’s ambience first, then service, then food.

“It maybe controversial, but I really understand where he’s coming from.”