KöD London review: I tried the all-you-can-eat steak restaurant where diners eat almost 1kg of meat

The steaks that are served for the all-you-can-eat Sunday roast. Credit: KöD LondonThe steaks that are served for the all-you-can-eat Sunday roast. Credit: KöD London
The steaks that are served for the all-you-can-eat Sunday roast. Credit: KöD London | KöD London
Before Morten P Ortwed opened the first UK branch of KöD, the Danish steakhouse, he underestimated how much meat British people eat.

In Denmark, people guzzle no more than 500g of steak with the restaurant’s famous all-you-can-eat Sunday lunch menu. But after opening the first KöD near Liverpool Street station in London last year, Morten was shocked to find Britons putting back almost 1kg of steak at every sitting.

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As a steak lover, I thought I have to try this. Eating nearly 1kg of steak sounds like a tough ask though, perhaps I’m secretly Danish? Ahead of my visit, Morten tells me: “Our all you can eat Sunday lunch menu sells out three months in advance, but we underestimated how much the Brits eat.

“The same offer in our Danish restaurants will see no more than 500g of steak consumed per person, in contrast to on average 835g per person at our London restaurant. We’re not going to compromise on our quality suppliers, so prices will need to go up, or we’ll go out of business.”

Steak at KöD London.Steak at KöD London.
Steak at KöD London. | NW

The deal which KöD - which translates as meat in Danish - is currently offering on a Sunday is £39 per person for unlimited steak, chips, chicken wings (as why not?), salad and peppercorn sauce. You can then add extras like béarnaise sauce or chimichurri if you want.

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This has been so popular since opening, the owner, DiningSix group, is set to open another branch in August in Soho. In the morning before, I skip breakfast and go on a run to try and make as much space for steak as possible.

The restaurant is in the peaceful Devonshire Square, less than five minutes walk from Liverpool Street station. There are lots of tables outside, with people enjoying the sun - and inside is also packed. Morten is right - the Danish steak experience is clearly very popular with Britons.

Clockwise from left: chimichurri, béarnaise, peppercorn and port sauces.Clockwise from left: chimichurri, béarnaise, peppercorn and port sauces.
Clockwise from left: chimichurri, béarnaise, peppercorn and port sauces. | NW

Inside, the restaurant is themed like a Scandi Noir thriller with lots of exposed brickwork, moody lighting and stripped back decor. I feel as if I could be sitting in Copenhagen’s trendy Meatpacking district instead of the City of London.

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We order the steak medium rare and everything else on the menu, as well as extra béarnaise and chimichurri, and medium-bodied bottle of Primitivo which is one of the house reds. A huge pile of steak emerges not long later, along with beautifully crispy chips, a vinegary salad and four buffalo chicken wings.

Buffalo chicken wings and crispy chips. Buffalo chicken wings and crispy chips.
Buffalo chicken wings and crispy chips. | NW

It doesn’t look like the steak has been rested for long enough, as there’s a little bit of juice on the plate, but it’s a packed Sunday in the restaurant. Either way, it’s absolutely delicious, perfectly seasoned with rosemary, sea salt and pepper, and I start making my way through the meat, lathering it in béarnaise and the signature peppercorn sauce. They are both thick and flavourful, and the triple-cooked chips sprinkled with fresh thyme are the perfect accompaniment.

Other than the meat, the portions are quite small, however you have 90 minutes from when you sit down to eat as much as you want, which is plenty of time. The waiters are very attentive, and when you leave your knife and fork at the side of your plate they know to refill.

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Morten P Ortwed. Credit: KoDMorten P Ortwed. Credit: KoD
Morten P Ortwed. Credit: KoD | KoD

A second mound of steak is laid on our table, this time perfectly rested. I’m starting to feel pretty full now, but it’s too good to stop. I’m told each portion is around 400g of meat - which is roughly 200g each - so I’m closing in on the Danes’ meat quota.

I gorge on more steak, chicken wings, chips and salad - but after a second serving I’m already defeated. The food is delicious - but eating double that amount seems impossible. Clearly many Brits have bigger stomachs than me. We’re offered dessert but I’m stuffed.

KöD does an a la carte steak menu during the week, but the Sunday lunch offer feels perfect for a big meal with friends or family. Everyone is able to tuck in and each as much as they want, in a sociable setting. And while it’s not as cheap as somewhere like Flat Iron, if you are hungry you can eat a lot of high-quality steak at incredible value.

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NationalWorld visited KöD London as part of its £39 Sunday lunch offer, which includes all-you-can-eat steak, chicken wings, chips, peppercorn sauce and salad. Bookings must be made online, and you can do that here.

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