RESTAURANT REVIEW - Van Zeller
HARROGATE'S upmarket restaurant Van Zeller celebrated its first birthday this month - an important milestone for most, but a particular achievement in the midst of the deepest recession since the 1930s.
Its success is a result of the hard work and creativity of chef patron Tom van Zeller who set out to put his own unique stamp on the town's busy dining scene by producing locally-sourced modern British cuisine with real attention to detail.
Tom has a string of accolades, including two AA rosettes, and has worked in some of the world's leading restaurants with a host of top chefs.
He returned to his Harrogate roots to create his own fine dining experience in the fashionable Montpellier Quarter with the backing of Michelin-starred restaurateur and culinary expert David Moore, founder of London's highly acclaimed Pied a Terre.
With a resum like this, expectations were naturally high and the late winter menu, which was small yet refined, didn't disappoint - although vegetarians may have felt left slightly out in the cold.
The starter of seared foie gras, mango and Yorkshire cobble, priced at 12.50, was smooth, velvety and perfectly seasoned. The slightly acidic sweetness of the mango cut through the rich indulgence of the foie gras - a surprisingly complimentary combination. Cut into cubes so tiny and intricate, the fruit was close to caviar. In the mouth, it melted with the texture of sorbet.
Sublime
The tuna tartare, capers and mizuna, costing 9.50, was another aesthetically pleasing dish - a common theme in Van Zeller - consisting of small succulent pink cubes of raw fish which tasted as if it was fresh off the line. Add to this the salt of the capers and the peppery notes of an "ice cream" of mizuna, the result was sublime.
Mains included east coast wild turbot, salsify and red wine sauce. At 29 the turbot had to be fantastic but the dish earned its London price.
The subtle, refined flavour of the soft white fish combined with the slightly sweet salsify were happy bedfellows - the sauce adding depth and a crisp parsnip nest lending crunch.
The saddle of venison, beetroot fondant and red wine chocolate sauce, 23.50, might sound like four strong flavours competing for your love but the result sang like a barbershop quartet. It was harmony on a plate - the meat cooked to pink perfection.
The dessert menu fulfilled the obligatory chocolate option with a chocolate marquis and praline crocquant, 9. The small portion was adequately gratifying, as a larger serving may have proved too rich. To offset the saccharin, it was served with a raspberry sorbet which offered a subtle sharpness. For non-chocoholics the rhubarb crumble souffl, 8.50, was the perfect choice. Currently in season, the succulent fruit lay at the base of a perfectly risen, fluffy souffl - again the sweetness of the souffl forming the perfect friendship with the tort rhubarb.
Welcoming
The staff were welcoming and friendly, as well as extremely knowledgable about what the dishes contained. And what Alex Evans, the front of house team leader, didn't know about cheese wasn't worth knowing.
He showed off an impressively diverse artisan cheeseboard and was able to give comprehensive details of each cheese. He was equally as adept with the extensive wine list - recommending a complimentary glass for each dish including a particularly excellent Amaral chardonnay (2007) San Antonio, Chile and a smooth caremelesque dessert wine, Liqueur Muscat, Skillogalee NV, Clare Valley, Australia.
However the wine doesn't come cheap with an average glass costing around 7.
Van Zeller's understated clean-cut modern deco is warm and inviting - an appropriate choice for the small premises and not at all pretentious.
It does not serve large "Yorkshire portions", but instead places emphasis on effort, creativity and flavour - a preferable option for most.
While the prices are undoubtedly steep, the restaurant is easily on a par with a Michelin star establishment and is definitely worth a visit - if not just to witness first hand Tom's adeptness at creating culinary works of art.
Email to a friend
Print this page
Looking for...
Featured advertisers
Jobs
Search for a job
Motors
Search for a car
Property
Search for a house
Weather for Harrogate
Monday 21 May 2012
Today
Cloudy
Temperature: 7 C to 14 C
Wind Speed: 18 mph
Wind direction: North
Tomorrow
Sunny
Temperature: 9 C to 22 C
Wind Speed: 12 mph
Wind direction: North
